History of the Luckenbooth Brooch

January 22, 2014 3 Comments

The Luckenbooth brooch gains its name from the “locked booths” that sold trifles along the Royal Mile near Saint Giles Cathedral in High Street, Edinburgh. In its simplest form it is a single heart shape with an open center that works with a buckle pin like an annular brooch. The heart and crown motifs are part of the same 17^th century fashion trends that resulted in the Claddagh ring design in Ireland. Two hearts intertwined; with and without crowns, as well as various abstractions and embellishments give this quite simple type of brooch many delightful forms.

Dainty Luckenbooth Brooch.

Quite commonly given as a love token or betrothal gift, folklore also invests the Luckenbooth brooch with talismanic value for protection against evil-eye and for nursing mothers to avoid witches stealing their milk or harming their babies. Legend associates the Luckenbooth brooch with Mary Queen of Scots (1542-1587). The form with two hearts and crown can be read as a romantic abstraction of the letter “M” in a royal monogram. Surprisingly, silver Luckenbooth brooches were a popular trade item with American Indians in the 18^th century, especially the Iroquois Nations. The design remains a traditional jewelry accessory and is even called “Luckenbooth” by contemporary Native-Americans.

Ornate Luckenbooth Brooch.

The Luckenbooth brooch has been a self-consciously Scottish form of jewellery since the 19^th century. The form was adapted to pebble jewellery in Victorian times, as well as being a regular feature in the ranges of most Scottish manufacturing jewellers who worked for the Highland outfitter and tourist trades.

From The Modern History of Celtic jewellery:1840-1980. By Stephen Walker (Author) , Aidan Breen (Author) , Tara Kelly (Author) , E. Mairi MacArthur (Author)

3 Responses

MichealSchupbach

March 01, 2024

Is this brooch the same idea? It has one heart, crown and thistle.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/x5sd9VgKk3egu9cQ6

Lori Derewitz

January 12, 2019

I would sincerely love to obtain your book~The Modern History of Celtic Jewellery. Is there anywhere I could purchase it?
Thank you,
Loti Derewitz
( a Walkers Celtic Jewelry Customer).

judith miles

June 30, 2016

hello, a friend would liketo have this description of Luckenbooth, becauseanotherfriend may own one.will you help?thanks. judith miles williamstown vt

Comments will be approved before showing up.

Also in Walker Metalsmiths Blog

What is a Shamrock?

March 12, 2024

The simplest answer to what is a shamrock is is actually not that simple. At its essence it is a three-leaved groundcover plant found in Ireland and across the globe. Are true shamrocks wood sorrel or common clover? The jury has been out since before St. Patrick first held up the shamrock as an example of the Holy Trinity.

Former Bagpipe Busker willing to trade Celtic Jewelry for Photo

February 23, 2024

Thousands of photographs were taken. Help find at least one.

Were you a tourist in London, Dublin or Paris in 1975 – 1978? Did you see a street performer playing bagpipes? Did you take his picture? Was it Steve Walker? If you can share that picture with Walker Metalsmiths you could score some sweet Celtic jewelry.

Learning the Art and Mystery of the Craft; Newest Jeweler Sydney Gallo Graduates Apprenticeship

June 26, 2023

Sydney Gallo has completed her apprenticeship at Walker Metalsmiths and has graduated as a full-fledged jeweler. The timing of her graduation enabled her to have the opportunity to exhibit her thesis jewelry at the 2nd International Day of Celtic Art Conference in Downpatrick, Northern Ireland in early June.